The invaluable Schott’s Food & Drink Miscellany[1] references booze on almost every page, but – astonishingly – has only a handful of mentions of coffee! More surprising for a gourmet’s handbook is that only one entry in this delightful little bible of surprising snippets, outrageous offcuts and scandalous sweetmeats from the culinary world sneaks in a mention of that common member of the food industry tribe: the alcoholic. Falling neatly between ‘Quick reference wine vintage guide’ and a capsule history of the Michelin Guide, is a mention hallway down page 148 of the addict caught in the maelstrom, with a quick nod to the 12 Steps of AA. I have, since my own journey into sobriety, often wondered if Mister Ben Schott ever considered making a little book of miscellaneous gobbets from chefs who have successfully traversed the enormous trough of rancid bilge that is the widespread alcoholism in the hospitality industry.
Sobriety is a tough river to swim for a chef in more ways than just abstinence from drinking, there are myriad problems presented in recipes where a substitute ingredient for liquor is required, for example.
Food service workers are notably heavy users of alcohol. Nationwide surveys indicate that their rates of heavy drinking are among the highest of any occupation (15.2% vs. an average of 8.8%) (2, 3). Research (4–6) suggests that those at risk for alcohol dependence may self-select into the restaurant industry.[2]
On the stoep of that coffee place last week, I was delighted to chat to a local chef who has some tales to tell about the truth of the above, a chef who did manage to dive upwards from the devil’s drunken kitchen sink after hitting the silt at the bottom. Carl Penn had been a professional chef for 23 years and was living that life to its fullest when he succumbed to his demons and lost everything to drugs and alcohol. “I truly lost everything. So now I am a butcher. I have always loved meat and it was a natural progression away from kitchens, for now.”
Carl’s first food-love is Mediteranean cuisine and its ingredients. He loves simplicity, and carries that philosophy into his dishes. “For the Bathurst Book Fair I want to capture meat and the Med in one cunning strike. We will be making stuffed soft Turkish flatbreads stuffed with juicy, fragrant slow baked lamb shoulder with classic hummus and tzatziki.” Carl is also offering a veggie option of grilled zucchini and roast squash with creamed feta.
Russell Campbell and Carl Penn
Carl is partnering with Russell and his team at that coffee place during the Bathurst Book Fair this weekend. Carl is going to be serving his special menu from 9am on Sunday 28th, until 4pm/or while stocks last. It’s the first of what Russell hopes will be many intimate events with Carl, with whom he aims to celebrate Coffee, Culture, and Cuisine at that coffee place.
Carl says “finding that coffee place was great. Russell is awesome and passionate, and he uses De Luxe Coffee, a firm favourite from my Cape Town days, when Judd the owner used to come eat in our restaurants and party after. My personal coffee tastes are simple: a strong flat white will do me just fine, and an espresso after dinner is heaven. Now that I don’t drink alcohol or use drugs, coffee and me have become better friends….addictive personality and all that.” he laughs.
What about something sweet for visitors after trawling all the book stalls during the Fair? I ask. “Ah,” says Chef Carl with a wide smile, “for dessert we’ll be adding a little French /Italian twist, with light profiteroles filled with Creme Pattisiere and drizzled with chocolate sauce.”
With a steaming cup of coffee, of course.
[1] https://www.goodreads.com/book/show/40701.Schott_s_Food_and_Drink_Miscellany
[2] Moore RS, Cunradi CB, Duke MR, Ames GM. Dimensions of problem drinking among young adult restaurant workers. Am J Drug Alcohol Abuse. 2009;35(5):329-33. doi: 10.1080/00952990903075042. PMID: 20180660; PMCID: PMC2829730.
＼ Get the latest news ／
The Irish chef/patron Sean Kinsella of the Mirabeau in Sandycove was a rare exception, never touched the stuff. If it’s any consolation to the rest of us, he also lost everything. In his case to the taxman. An industry that attracts characters, definitely.